The Short gown and Bed gown

'Short gown', is a modern term used to describe a jacket-like garment worn by women in the second half of the 18^th, through the early 19^th centuries. It is cut with the body, sleeves and skirts all of one piece although the sleeves are often pieced several inches down the shoulder much like the sleeve seam on a shift or man's shirt, therefore, not a set in sleeve. Other piecing is often done to allow for enough yardage.

I've referred to the term short gown as a modern term, as there is no clear proof of what a short gown is. We have no 'picture' of a short gown with the term "short gown" written next to it. Inventories list them, although not as frequently as gowns, as do run-away ads in the newspapers. We have extant examples we refer to as short gowns and yet, for example, in this inventory of Ester Case of Simsbury, CT dated September 19th 1769, is the short gown in the style we have just mentioned or a robe a l' Anglaise just shortened up a bit?

Sharon Burnston's book Fitting & Proper, gives us two examples from the Chester County Historical Society. The Society owns 11 such short gowns and is the largest known collection. One, dated 1750-1800, shown in her book, is relevant to our era. What is known about this garment is that it is an everyday, working garment. All such garments known to date are made of linen, cotton or a linen-cotton blend and include solids, stripes and prints. It is thought that because so many of those in existence are from the mid-Atlantic region with a Quaker or Mennonite provenance that they may be of a limited local tradition. Perhaps the frugal New Englanders sold more of their everyday castoffs to the ragman!

In a discussion with Claudia Kidwell, author of the article "Short Gowns", (Dress magazine, Vol. 4, 1978), and Sally Queen at the Williamsburg Symposium, January 2000, it was determined that while we can give a definition to this garment, all are in agreement that much more research needs to be done. Questions as to who wore them, were they limited to a specific region, what other names could they have gone by, for what purpose were they worn and were they simply a variation of the bed gown, (which was not just worn in the bed chamber), need to be answered. There are numerous drawings that show women wearing bed gowns in a variety of everyday situations, but fewer with what appear to be shortgowns, which are sometimes difficult to identify from a jacket. Such a puzzle we have to unravel.

With everyday, working type garments surviving in small numbers it begs the question of how did women go about their work and keep warm?

The Bedgown is highly recommended for women just beginning a Revolutionary War period wardrobe. Functional and versatile it will serve various situations. It is not limited to wearing at night as it is found often in paintings as a working women's garment. Bedgowns for non-working women were made of "cotton cloth more or less fine, of plain or embroidered muslin or other similar material" (Diderot), or from quilted silk or linen as researched by Clare Rose, cited in Documentation, 'Secondary Information of Interest' and referenced by Kathleen Kannik in her Bed Gown pattern

For the Basic 5 Wardrobe it is great for those just getting started or for historic sites on a budget. Ideally worn over stays or jumps it is possible to wear until that part of the wardrobe can be attained. Easily constructed it may be made for warm weather by using linen or cotton or cold weather with the use of a woolen fabric. An un-constructed garment, this allowing for small, medium and large sizes to be shared by a wide range of body sizes important for historic sites sharing a wardrobe among their docents. A bit more slenderizing than the shortgown with it's longer length. The bedgown continues its usefulness even after adding the more fitted gowns over stays to one's wardrobe. For instance if you're playing the role of a camp follower for weekend events the bedgown may then be useful upon rising in the morning or on these just too hot days.

In French the bedgown or "Manteau-de-lit" is found described by F.A. Garsult, in Description des Arts et Metier in 1769. Found under the section of the couturier, or dressmaker in which is found drawings and details for construction of the manteau-de-lit. This discription in French and its translation are found in the Kannik's Korner Women's Bedgown pattern.

Kathleen Kannik has carefully studied extant bedgowns and paintings and offers a pattern for the bedgown through her website www.kannikskorner.com With permission from Kathleen I quote here from her notes in the pattern.

This style of garment is always below the hip length, usually mid-hip or longer. It should close easily at the center front, and is not intended to be worn open with a stomacher."

"Bedgowns, or in French "Manteau-de-lit" [Coat of bed], were also according to Diderot, sometimes called "Manteau-de-nuit" [Coat of night, or night-gown]. They were worn by working class women and non-working women, and were made up in fabrics according to their intended use and wearer status. Diderot describes them as a "kind of short clothing which the women wear to the bed, and which they keep in the morning in the fashions of 'deshabille' [undress]. This obviously describes those worn by the upper class, non-working women, but there is extensive evidence of working class bedgowns, both in contemporary illustrations and paintings, and in the contemporary writing, as well as surviving garments."

"The surviving working bedgowns are usually made of cotton or linen fabric, and show wear and mending. As noted in the Documentation section of this (her) pattern, there are variations of sleeve styles. Body styles also vary, some having pleats in the center back and sides, some having sloped sides without pleats. Necklines are similar, but vary slightly in construction and collar insertion, while some have no collar piece but a rounded cut neckline. Bedgowns show some style changes over time, with the most distinct change being narrower longer sleeves at the end of the eighteenth century."

"Bedgowns for working women should be made of linen or cotton, with linen or cotton lining. They can be made with stripes or prints appropriate for the period. Use caution in prints, and avoid those which would have been used for furniture and bedhangings, etc." ..."For cooler climates, bedgowns can also be made of finer woolen cloth, such as the dark, plain-colored ones worn by fisherwomen in some European villages.""---- *Clare Rose

From M. Garsault in Description des Arts et Metiers

Pattern Recommendation
Kannik's Korner Women's Bedgown 1730-1770
www.kannikskorner.com