18cNewEnglandLife
Clothing & Accoutrements
The Petticoat
by Rhonda McConnon
The petticoat, also referred to as a 'coat' and less often, a 'skirt', is the outer and under
garment worn when dressed and then, worn in multiples of at least 2 often 3.
Generally referred to as a petticoat this garment will be mentioned in in
probate inventories as a coat, i.e.. quilted coat, calimanco coat, gown and coat
etc. References can be found
mentioning this item as a skirt, however this appears to be limited in
comparison to those found for petticoat and coat. Most notably found by those
reading in Sally Wister's Journal when she refers to wearing her "dark
shortgown and green skirt.
Whether worn as a matching petticoat to a gown, or a simple everyday
petticoat of a contrasting fabric and color the petticoat is worn two
to three at a time. After all this is the only garment worn to keep the lower
half of the body warm aside from a women's stockings. Under petticoats are
mentioned, possibly made shorter and narrower than an outer petticoat, and for
formal wear when mentioned as a hooped under coat.
Petticoats for the country woman's everyday wear.
The 18th century New England women spends three quarters of the year trying
to keep warm with her only real respite being in from June to possibly early
September. As a country women from this area a wool petticoat is a necessity
and works well for portrayal on all but the hottest days. Wool can be
varied to meet your changing needs by selecting lighter or heavier weights
always keeping in mind that it must drape well and not be too heavy for
gathering onto a waistband which is generally more preferable to a drawstring
when using wool or a heavy fabric. I
Linen is a good choice for warmer weather needs and may be found as 100%
linen or a linen-cotton blend, both of which are found in 18th century records. When economizing some heavier weight
cotton choices may be used but cotton broadcloth or quilters
solids are just too light. (Consider using any that you already have of this lighter
weight as an under coat.) I would like to recommend that you consider linen over
cotton. Currently available resources for reasonably priced linen and
linen-cotton blends are making this possible on line at www.fabrics-store.com
as well as other sources in our Merchants Listing. Since linen comes in
54"-60" width two lengths are all that's needed, for an average
size, as three would
be needed for a 45" fabric choice.
Keep it simple and plain when deciding a fabric or color. Vertical
stripes are a
good choice but current research finds that checks have not been found to
have been used. Color should be based on what natural dyes would have
produced. Woolen fabrics offer more choice in color in that this fiber
takes the dye more readily. Linen even when dyed by profession dyers and with
professional dyes may have offered a limited color choice. Natural, brown and
indigo blue are most often mentioned. Possibly more color may have been
found in stripes. More on this to come. As a general rule browns and blues
are 'safe' colors. Prints won't be discussed here as an in-depth article is
needed to properly document their use as prints were specialty fabrics in this
period and for our country women.
When choosing fabric for a petticoat consider its uses. Wool
is a good choice for warmth, it feels less cold when wet, and has fire retardant
qualities so choose 100% wool for safety around fires. When
selecting a wool, you'll want one that drapes nicely and isn't
too bulky to pleat onto a waistband. If you haven't worked with
woolens before, I would advise that you wash the piece the way you will
after it's made. In other words, hand wash the yardage in tepid-cool water, no
soap needed this time, spin dry in the
washer, and line dry and iron. You don't want to 'felt' it, or cause much shrinkage when using it for a petticoat or you will lose the
drape. Preparing the fabric in this way will allow you to hand wash once made
and avoid the dry cleaner.
Construction
For the average sized women a petticoat width of about120 inches is a good
rule of thumb. That's usually two widths of 54-60" fabric and is pretty
standard for both wool and linen.
To begin, measure from your waist to the length you'd like to have and add a
half inch for a hem. No need to add the the half inch if you're going to
leave the edge raw or bind.
Cut two lengths of 54"-60" fabric and three of anything narrower.
If using narrower fabric decide how full you'd like to have your petticoat and
adjust width by narrowing the width our your 3 panels or make one small panel
and two full width panels. Sew each together, right sides to right
sides, using 1/4" seams and leaving the upper 9"-12" open
if using the wider width. If using narrower fabric, stitch one of the seams
leaving the 9-12" open on the upper end. Measure half way around and
cut an opening in the fabric the same length, and bind. Press this
9"-12" to the inside and stitch. This to be known as the
pocket opening.
Gathered waistband
Gather the front and back onto two separate
waistbands, with each band cut about 1-1/2 to two inches larger
than half of your waist measurement. The fullness of this fabric should be spaced
around the waist in such a way as to have a smooth, un-gathered
space of approximately six to eight inches over the stomach area. To do this
begin in the center of one of the panels - between the pocket openings. Box
pleat three to four inches each side of center. Make small pleats with the
remaining length. This panel should, when complete, measure half the waist
measurement plus 1-1/2-2". Pleat the back without the box pleat,
starting at the center and pleating out toward the outer edge. This too
should measure half the waist measurement plus 1-1/2-2". Re-adjusting your
pleat width to get this measurement is often necessary. Baste if you'd
like.
Attach a waistband. The band should measure about 3/4" wide when
finished.
Tapes or hooks and eyes may
be used to secure the waist, with the hooks & eyes or tapes sewn
to the waistband edges. Original waistbands on existing 18th century
petticoats are sadly seldom found as they have somewhere along the
line been replaced often using using 19th century methods.
The tape method is one used
today by re-enactors, although not documentable in a true sense, it is
readily endorsed for its practical use and ease. To do this, sew tapes,
appx. 15" in length onto each end of the waistband--that's 4
tapes in all. Use a thin tape to reduce bulk.
For a drawstring waistband
The drawstring method can be done quickly by
simply forming a casing and slipping a tape through it. For lighter weight
fabrics this is a fine choice. Both methods will
have pocket slits on either side of about 9-12 inches in length to let you get in
and out of the petticoat, as well as to give you access to your pockets.
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To tie. Tie the back of the petticoat on first by pulling
the 'petticoat back' into place and bringing the tapes
around to your front and tying them. Then place the
'petticoat front' in place, and bring the tapes around
behind you and tie in the back. The waistband will overlap at the sides for about
one-two inches, leaving easy access to your pockets and this will
keep your undergarments from showing.
If you're using a drawstring through a casing, cut two lengths of
tape, half your waist measurement plus 30". Draw each
string/tape through the casing and tie as above. Then adjust most of
the gathers to be over your hips, smoothing out the
middle front.
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| The length of the petticoat A country
women's petticoat should represent her her working class status.
Think of what length it must be in
order to carry a child or an arm load of laundry and step up
into the house or to walk up a hill or stairs and not
have to pick up the petticoat. This length is generally accepted
as practical at a few inches above the ankle or at ankle lenght. A
narrow hem should then be turned up. Some wools can be left raw
edged.
It is a Victorian
attitude that ankles should not be exposed, not an 18th
century one. For our period being able to work in a comfortable length
is important as well as showing off one’s
‘clocked’ stockings and those pretty metal buckles,
when dressed finely, was
much more important!
For children's petticoats, where
extra length would be needed as they grow, the hem is
still narrow. The extra length would be taken up with a
series of tucks above the hem.
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Details, details
Often petticoats are found with bound hems. In general, woolen tape for wool
coats, and linen on linen coats was stitched to bind the edge. Stitch half the
width of the tape to one side of the coat fabric, fold the remaining half to the
other side and stitch again. Great for a hand sewing project, but best
left without if machine stitching is considered. Wooded Hamlet is a great
source for such tapes.
The bound hem is often seen on quilted petticoats. Quilted coats
are an under utilized garment by the re-enactor with the skills of a quilter being required.
Examples of such original pieces can be found among other places, in Costume
Close-Up and Fitting & Proper. This item is found
frequently in New England inventories with its obvious quality for warmth.
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