ON DRESSING THE PART
What Do We Call It?
I am about to be very simplistic. Nomenclature can be a dirty word -- names/terms are not standardized throughout the world or over a period of time. There was an attempt at one time to standardize textile terms and names for the purpose of conservators and curators working internationally. This international language was started but to be honest I have no idea whether it ever successfully solved the problem. This is what we are facing here. We are trying to find a universal terminology for articles of 18th century clothing, so that we will instantly understand what we are saying to each other. I do not think that it will work successfully.
At the Gown Seminar for the Battle Road Clothing people, Sue Felshin had completed a gown after a great deal of discussion and consultation with rev list members and others. She showed it and asked me then, what I would call it -- proper terminology and all that. I thought for a second or two and told them all -- "I'd call it a gown what got cut off a bit."
Do you understand what I am getting at? I sincerely believe that we have succumbed to the trap of feeling that we must have a NAME for every style and deviation in dress. I do not believe that such ever existed or ever will.
If you must name things, keep your CATEGORIES broad, i.e.,
Bedgown: loose unfitted garment constructed of squares & rectangles, hip to thigh length, with somewhat loose sleeve that may be rolled up if long.
Shortgown: utilitarian garment closefitted in back with stitched down pleating to the waist, straight cut in front, it may or may not be fastened with ties, hooks and eyes, pins. It may or may not have gussets for fullness over the hip. It is shorter in length than the bedgown and the sleeves are usually cut in one with the body, and pieced at any length where more length is desired.
Bodice/jacket: Closely fitted upperbody garment similar in cut to a gown with short skirts and sleeves decoratively fashioned for indoor wear: The outerwear jacket of heavier fabric may button or hook fully or partially, and with sleeves long and closecut. It is usually worn over another garment.
Sacque back gown: This has a closely fitted bodice usually with a laced or tied lining that makes the fit adjustable. It is distinguished by the multi-layered pleating that adds a great width of fabric to the back of the gown, over riding the closeness of the bodice. This is the gown that is sometimes referred to as en francaise and is erroneously referred to as Watteau. The same styling is sometimes seen in a shorter 3/4 length.
Gown: A garment with the bodice closely fitted to the body by shaped panels or by stitched down pleating. It may be floor length or 3/4 length. It may be open or closed.
Caraco: This is a name used to describe a thigh length garment shaped to the figure and flared below, without a seam at the waist. Worn over a p'coat it was referred to as a caraco dress.
Methods of Wearing Gowns & Petticoats:
Retrousee dans les poches: a French term for the method of bringing the p'coat (the front corners of an open gown) through the pocket-slits, resulting in a draped effect. This same method (without the French name <g>) would hike a work garment to a shorter out of the way configuration. The same effect could be achieved in apron and p'coat by inserting a portion of fabric into the waistband.
Polonaise: The bringing of the lower part of the garment into a series of draped flounces toward the back of the garment by means of rings and loops, drawstrings, buttons and cords. This may be accomplished with a floor length or 3/4 length garment.