18cNewEnglandLife
Clothing & Accoutrements


Glossary of Textile Terms

Baize, Bays A coarse woolen stuff, having a long nap, formally, when made of finer and lighter texture, used as material for clothing. First introduced into England about 1561. (2)

Barras. Canvas or linen imported from Holland and used for neckclothes. (1)

Bearskin A shaggy kind of woolen cloth used for overcoats. (2)

Bombasine, Bombazeen, Bombase A twilled or corded dress material, composed of silk and worsted; sometimes of cotton and worsted or worsted alone. In black, much used for mourning. (2)

Brocade  Textile woven with a pattern of raised figures, originally in gold and silver. "At present, any stuff of silk, satin, or even simple taffety, when wrought, and enriched with flowers...obtains the denomination of brocade." (1)

Calamanco, Callimancoe Woolen textile, plain, striped, checked, or figured and glazed. (1)

A woolen stuff of Flanders, glossy on the surface, and woven with a satin twill and checkered in the warp, so that the checks are seen on one side only; much used in the 18th Century. (2)

Calico Originally a general name for all kinds of cotton cloth imported from Calicut, India, and from the East. (2)

Damask, Damascus Silk, wool, or linen reversible fabric richly figured with designs; ground and pattern distinguished by contrasting luster. (1)

Drill Stout twilled linen.(1)

Duck Strong untwilled linen or cotton fabric, lighter and finer than canvas; used for small sails and men’s outer clothing, esp. sailors’. From the Dutch word doeck, meaning linen or linen clothes. "What is to be done for tents, I know not. I am assured that very little duck can be got in this country." Jefferson, Writings, 1780. (1)

Duffel, Duffle Coarse wool cloth with a thick nap, originally made in Flanders. "They likewise make here the Duffield Stuffs, A Yard and three Quarters wide, which are carried to New England and Virginia, and much worn even here in Winter." Defoe, A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britian, 1769. (1)

A course woolen cloth having a thick nap or frieze, originally made at Duffel near Antwerp. This fabric is also called "shag," and by the early traders "trucking cloth". A light duffel cloak with silver frogs (1759). Duffel great coats (1791). (2)

Durrant, Durance. A Woolen stuff sometimes called "everlasting," a variety of tammy. Both tammy and durant were not pressed and glazed. (2)

Gingham Cotton or linen cloth woven of dyed yarn in stripes, checks, or patterns. Manufactured in Manchester, England. (1)

Holland Fine linen cloth first inported from Holland; after the 18th century the name was applied to any fine linen. (1)

Kersey Course narrow cloth woven from lnog-strand wool; usually ribbed. "English broad-cloth, and red Kersey they highly esteemed." Cook, Voyages, 1772. (1)

Linsey-Wolsey,Linsey-Woolsey Course woolen cloth first made at Linsey in Suffolk, England; popular in the Colonies. (1)

A fabric woven from a mixture of wool and flax, later a dress material of course inferior wool, woven on a cotton warp. (2)

Osnaburg, Oznabrig, Ossembrike A course linen cloth formerly made at Osnabruck, Germany.

Tammy A fine worsted cloth of good quality, often with a glazed finish. (1) (2)

Sources

  1. An Elegant Art. Los Angles County Museum of Art. 1983.
  2. Everyday Life in the Massachusetts Bay Colony. George Francis Dow. 1935.

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