ON DRESSING THE PART


Underneath It All
by Barbara Delorey

Tight Lacing? YES

Can you just wear period dress and go about your business, and expect to be convincing? Twentieth century body shapes and mannerisms simply do not translate into 18th century appearance, or any other century for that matter.

If you really want to look your best, just make up your mind that your bodice will be tight and straight, your neckline low, your bosom pushed up like rising moons, and your petticoats propped out with several layers and/or farthingale, pocket hoop or bumroll supports.

The best dressmaker in the world cannot help and when I do a slide presentation for reenactors I like to illustrate this point with this image.

The lady on the left is a beautiful woman with excellent color and fabric sense. She chose well, but she also INSISTED that she could not wear more than one petticoat, she didn't want her bodice too tight or the neckline too low, and her too slim silhouette and twentieth century bustline just doesn't bring about the right results. Nuff said?

Straps should be on the straight grain, and although they are not necessary, you will find that they will pull back your shoulders and give you a more erect posture. We have had excellent results following the pattern diagrams in Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.

Cotton drill is a good choice of fabric for stays not meant to show. Some originals are made of linen, both coarse and fine weaves, some wool, some with silk, brocade covers. Many are bound around the edges with silk or kid and may be half-boned or full-boned. In all cases the stays are high in back, conical in form, and with no hip constriction.

Always remember that the corset is a mold, rather than a waist cincher. It is a foundation and support for the body, to achieve the fashionable silhouette of the period.

Do not redesign; it is important to follow accurate seam lines and boning placement. If you improvise, you run the risk of becoming a sausage rather than a cone. Not a pretty sight!

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