ON DRESSING THE PART


On Guidelines for Your Wardrobe
by Barbara Delorey

When deciding on your wardrobe components, always keep in mind your role, and the class appropriate to that role, for eighteenth century society was particularly class-conscious. Keep in mind where you are from and what your position or occupation is. Basic patterns may be up- or downgraded according to your choice of fabric and/or trims.

Natural Fibers: linen, cotton, wool, silk, leather

Avoid the use of prints unless you are absolutely sure the print you are using is not a copy of a brocade or damask, but an actual print of the period. Instead substitute needlework - use crewel, silk embroidery, ribbon, braid and self-fabric trims.

Brocades and damasks may be worn by ladies of quality

Petticoats are not underwear and should be 3 or 4 yards in circumference. No fewer than two should be worn at a time. Try using p'coats of two different colors or a plain one and a striped one. You achieve two different looks by wearing first one on the top, and next time the second one on top.

Work caps should completely cover the hair, caps worn with day dresses or gowns may be quite frivolous however. White or off-white only, of course. And your hair should be pulled back without bangs on the forehead.

Skimmers of straw or felt are appropriate, a man's uncocked hat may be worn, and a cocked hat is fine with a riding habit.

Shifts are white or off-white only! The quality of the fabric commensurate with status, always low-cut, casing or ruffle, drawstrings at neck and sleeve bottom.

Aprons and kerchiefs may be colored, striped, checked, embroidered. Silk, cotton, linen, all weights of fabric.

Work bodices or shortgowns should be closed with pins, laces, ties or hooks. When cutting your bodice keep in mind that the front is cut flat without any shaped darts. The shaped side seam is set toward the back, not right under the arm - the shoulder seam is also to the back, not on top of the shoulder and the bottom of the bodice is usually flared or gussetted to accommodate the flare of petticoats. Bodice should be sleeved although there are some exceptions to this. In some instances men's shirts, coats and waistcoats may be worn. Your stays should not be showing in public. There are exceptions to everything, but should be determined judiciously.

Top stitched seams, whipstitching and narrow hems and narrow seams are correct. Do not use wide hems at the bottom of your petticoats.

Wool triangles or rectangles, (woven, not crocheted) offer warmth. Capes and mantles may be made with separate or attached hoods.

Shoes remain an expensive problem. They may be ordered in dress or work styles. If you keep in mind that for work a plain black leather tie shoe is acceptable, and if you can, find a dress shoe with pointed toe, high instep and baby Louis heel. If the shoe is cut low it may be possible to add lappets, buckle and a high tongue.

Day dresses and gowns should be worn over stays or have a boned bodice to give the proper funnel shape. Sleeves are cut below the elbow unless the elbow is covered by the shift.

Fabric content if unknown should appear to be correct and should not have a tell-tale glisten under direct sunlight. Remember that natural fibers are safer when you are around open fires. Polyesters can cause a nasty burn.

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